In July 1929, a Berlin dentist and his mistress sailed from Amsterdam to build a new Garden of Eden on a lonely island in the Galapagos. Five years later, three people were dead, two had vanished without a trace, and the one woman who may have known the full truth kept it to herself until she died at 96.
Steel teeth and knee-high boots
Friedrich Ritter had a thriving medical practice, a wife who sang opera and a plump bank account, and he was miserable. For more than 20 years he had dreamed of a life of contemplation and communion with nature. He was obsessed with the German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche's Übermensch, or Superman, the fully self-realized man who rises above everything society expects of him. Ritter feared his comfortable Berlin life was only blinding him to his own mediocrity. His patient Dore Strauch, a 28-year-old teacher 15 years his junior, felt crushed by her husband and ignored by her headmaster, and she believed it was her destiny to live free. Both walked out on their marriages and set out for Floreana, also known as Charles Island. It had been a stop for whaling ships, and later a prison colony where sharks and fierce currents did the work of bars.
Ritter came prepared. Before leaving Berlin he pulled all his own teeth, because who knows the danger of a dental emergency in the middle of nowhere better than a dentist? Then he made himself a set of stainless steel dentures. Dory kept her teeth. In the tropics they rotted and abscessed until Ritter pulled every one of them with gardening tools, no anesthesia. Then, in a true love twist, he shared his steel dentures with her.
The couple built a corrugated tin shelter, planted a garden, raised chickens and gave up clothes entirely, except for knee-high boots to protect them from the razor-sharp volcanic rock. Wild donkeys smashed through their fence every night, and wild hogs rooted up whatever was left. Ritter stayed philosophical: "Paradise must be created."
Word got out. A visitor named J.F. Schimpff announced himself by singing the German national anthem, and "two absolutely naked figures, beautifully tanned, ran out of the house" before darting back inside to dress. Schlimpf later learned that his host had also stopped to pop in his false teeth, which were "made of glittering stainless steel."
A family in a pirate cave
In 1932, Heinz and Margret Wittmer arrived with their 13-year-old son and a baby on the way. They weren't chasing philosophy. They were just worn out by life in Germany after World War I. They set up house in an old pirate cave on the far side of the island, where Ritter delivered their son Rolf, without much enthusiasm. Rolf was the first birth ever recorded on Floreana. Ritter looked down on the Wittmers for not caring about Nietzsche, and the two couples never became friends.
The empress in pink silk
Then a boat brought four more settlers. The self-proclaimed Baroness Eloise Wehrborn de Wagner-Bosquet, Austrian-born and divorced from a French merchant, had until recently owned a small dress shop in Paris. She came ashore with a manservant, Manuel Valdivieso, and two lovers, Robert Philippson and Rudolf Lorenz. She planned a luxury hotel for the rich called Hacienda Paradiso, open also to "tourists and immigrants of the better races." She sent press releases to the newspapers, seduced the governor of the Galapagos and seduced yacht captains too. Before long, yachts were racing across the Pacific toward a brunette who wore pink silk bloomers and a pearl-handled revolver on a silver cord around her waist.
She took charge of the island and decided who could stay, once marching a Norwegian hunter back to his ship at gunpoint. Somehow she got nearly everyone to call her the Empress of Floreana. During a drought, all three households fought over water, land and everything else. At home, the Baroness grew closer to Philippson. Lorenz was sick, stuck with the cooking and cleaning, and kept losing fistfights to Philippson. He was thrown out, stayed with the Wittmers for months, and then the Baroness talked him into coming back.
A handful of Europeans sailed to a nearly empty Galapagos island to escape humanity and build paradise. Within five years three people were dead and two had vanished for good, and the only survivors were the family living in a pirate cave, who never said what they knew.
Gone to Tahiti, supposedly
On March 27, 1934, the Wittmers heard shouting from the Baroness's house. They found Lorenz alone and upset, with the house torn apart. The Baroness and Philippson were gone, he said, off to Tahiti, but they had left everything they owned behind. Margaret later told the authorities that no yachts had been in sight that day, and no record ever turned up of the pair landing anywhere. A few days later, Lorenz took the house apart and sold every scrap of it. Then he got a ride on the Dinamita, a boat captained by a Norwegian named Nuggerud and headed for San Cristobal.
Eight months later, a tuna boat crew found two naturally mummified bodies on Marchena, a barren volcanic island with no fresh water that lay far off the course to San Cristobal. Letters signed by Mrs. Wittmer and a pile of baby clothes made people think the dead were the Wittmers, until the American radio star Phillips Lord reported he had just had dinner with them. The dead men were Nuggerud, recognized by his bald head, and Lorenz. They had died of thirst.
A curse at the deathbed
Among the letters was one from Ritter to the millionaire explorer Captain G. Allan Hancock of Los Angeles: "Then I will tell you what I cannot write, because I have no proof for it." Hancock set out with scientists from the Smithsonian.
By then, things between Ritter and Dory had turned ugly. Back in Berlin he had told her she could control her multiple sclerosis, a disease that attacks the nerves, with the power of her mind. When she needed a cane on the island, he saw it as proof that she was inferior. He went days without speaking to her and hit her in front of witnesses. In November 1934, while Hancock was still on his way, Ritter died. Dory blamed spoiled chicken. Margret Wittmer, who was at his bedside, didn't believe it. Ritter hardly ate meat, he had lived through droughts before, and Dory ate the same food without getting sick. In her book Satan Came to Eden, Dory described a tender goodbye. Margaret said Ritter's last words were "I curse you with my dying breath."
Whatever secret Ritter couldn't write down died with him. Newspapers printed a story about a fight over buried pirate treasure. Dory died in 1943, and if she did poison Ritter, she got away with it. Margaret stayed on Floreana, hinting and teasing tourists but never telling, until her death in 2000. The Baroness left behind just one trace, a sign at Post Office Bay welcoming travelers to her paradise: "So let us be happy. Let us be good."
