In the far northwest corner of Canada lies a river valley where, for the better part of a century, men went looking for gold and turned up years later as skeletons with no heads. People gave its landmarks names like Funeral Range, Hell's Gate and the Valley of Headless Men. The Royal Canadian Mounted Police blame poor preparation and a wilderness that doesn't care. That explains the people who vanished. It does not explain the heads.
The camp with no people
Long before any prospector showed up, the Dene, who had lived in the lowlands around the Mackenzie and Liard Rivers for more than 10,000 years, feared the Naha. The Naha were a warlike mountain people, hairy giants in some tellings, who swept down out of the Nahanni Valley on bloody raids. The valley itself was worse. It was lush, packed with fish and game, and in Dene eyes it was cursed. It was unclean. It was bad medicine. The few hunters who made it back told of a spirit whose shrieks ricocheted off the canyon walls, of headhunters led by a white woman as pale as a ghost, and of caves where giants feasted on human flesh.
Eventually a party of Dene braves decided to strike first. Scouts found a Naha camp, and warriors swarmed it. Fires still smoldered. Sleeping pallets were laid out. There wasn't a soul in the place. The war party got out fast, and the Naha were never seen or heard from again.
Gold fever heads north
Fur traders came next. The Northwest Company set up trading posts at Fort Liard and Fort of the Forks. The traders heard the legends from the Dene and decided the money was worth the risk. Trappers vanished, which is no great surprise in grizzly country. Then, on July 14, 1897, a battered steamship called the Excelsior docked in San Francisco carrying gaunt, weather-beaten prospectors and literal tons of Klondike gold. One man's sack alone held over 200 pounds. Thousands of people raced north, and sooner or later some of them were bound to push into the Nahanni.
Initials on a tree
In 1904 the brothers Frank and Willie McLeod left Edmonton with Robert Weir, a Scottish mining engineer, carrying plenty of ammunition to hunt their way through the winter. For five years nobody heard a word from them, and in that country, nobody was alarmed.
Their brother Charles, a skilled outdoorsman, was guiding a group of prospectors up the Nahanni when the men spotted a blazed tree (one with a mark carved into its bark) standing over the ashes of an old campfire. The carving read 1905. Under the date were his brothers' initials. The party followed the trail and found a blazed tree at every campsite. Then one man cut his foot and stayed behind to dress it. When he caught up, he had news: two skeletons were lying in the brush under a large tree.
Charles reached them within the hour. He found scraps of rotted cloth, plus Frank's watch and his ring. Neither skeleton had a head. One breastbone was shattered, as if a man had been shot with a rifle while lying on a pile of blankets. Near the tree, someone had carved words about a valuable mine, and someone had hacked them until they couldn't be read. There was no sign of Weir.
Charles spoke the Dene language fluently, and a Dene man he knew told him more. Weir's blanket and tin cup had turned up near a cache of moose meat three miles away. Frank's notebook, which he never went anywhere without, had been found too. Then one of the people who found it destroyed it, even though the Dene argued against it. Talk at the trading posts settled on two theories. One held that the Dene killed the men to keep a rich vein of gold, and the stampede of prospectors that would follow it, off their ancestral lands. The other blamed a white man who wanted the strike for himself. Hardly anyone suspected Weir. He had been in Canada only a couple of months, and one account concluded that a green hand like him, a newcomer with no wilderness skills, wouldn't have a chance. Charles insisted the Dene were blameless.
For four decades, prospectors in the Nahanni Valley turned up as skeletons missing only their heads. The bones had no tooth marks and hadn't been scattered, and nobody has ever found the heads or figured out who or what took them.
The valley keeps its count
In 1915 Poole Field brought a party of seven into the valley, to the spot now called Dead Man's Valley. Field was a former Mountie, meaning a member of the mounted police, and he had worked on the McLeod investigation. Mrs. Field's sister, Annie Laferte, suffered a breakdown and ran away from camp. The group searched for her until July. An Indian reported that he saw her "with a devil in her, running naked up the side of a hill." She was never found. Some prospectors who knew those rivers later blamed the summer mosquitoes, which could drive a person to tear off their clothes and scratch their skin bloody.
Later, a Dene trader handed Field a letter from a prospector named Martin Jorgensen, inviting him to share a rich gold strike. Field followed Jorgensen's map to the mouth of Flat River and found a cabin burned to the ground. Sixty feet away lay Jorgensen's bones, missing their head. There were no clues and no suspects, and nobody ever found the strike. In 1928 another headless body turned up, and it came to be called the Yukon Fisher. In 1931 searchers found the charred bones of Philip Powers in his burnt-out cabin on the Flat River. In 1945 a miner from Ontario was found dead in his sleeping bag, and his head was gone.
A garden in the frozen north
Prospectors brought back something even stranger: stories of a tropical valley. Mining engineer Frank Perry described boiling rivers, rose bushes as tall as trees, winters without frost, and animals so fat and tame he could almost touch them. American Army captain Samuel C. Scott reported a 600-pound white deer with a single horn. In 1925 a Royal Canadian Air Force colonel, Scott Williams, announced, "That country is the garden of the world," and described giant tulips and an albino moose. Two prospectors, Hank Russell and Jack Lee, found perfectly round tracks 18 inches across with three toe marks at the front. They knew how it sounded, but they thought of a mammoth.
In 1947 a 29-year-old explorer, Walter J. Tully, crossed all 200 miles of the valley and found yet another dead prospector, this one with his head nearly gone. Tully blamed scurvy, starvation and scavengers: "The coyotes couldn't get to the body, but they gnawed away at his head." It's a tidy answer, except none of the other remains had tooth marks, none of the bodies had been scattered, and only one man was ever found in a sleeping bag. Were these the pickiest scavengers on Earth?
Today the Nahanni is about the size of Belgium, and the only real way in is by chartered plane. In 2018 it had 1,800 visitors, while Banff had over 4.5 million. Climbers come for the Cirque of the Unclimbables, and the few people who have stood in front of the 315-foot Virginia Falls call it the most beautiful waterfall on Earth. Some believe the Naha drifted south and became the Navajo, whose origin stories and language are strikingly similar. The heads were never found.
