Dr. Walter Kidd spent three years looking at women's ankles on his daily walks and delivered his verdict: "Many women walk like dachshunds." Most, he reported, had "deplorable ankles and feet." It wasn't a study at all, just one man's opinion. Still, his obsession was completely mainstream. Once upon a time a lady's ankle was considered a most seductive and alluring thing, alluring enough that towns on both sides of the Atlantic held contests to find the best one.
Limbs under lock and key
The idea that women have legs at all is fairly new. In medieval Europe nobody called a woman's legs legs. They were limbs, and they stayed hidden under rigid, floor-length skirts propped up with layers and contraptions built to limit movement. A later craze, the hobble skirt, cinched the hem so tight, sometimes tied right at the ankles, that the wearer could only hobble.
Five hundred years later, Victorian England was no better. The word legs was scandalous, even on a table or a piano. Women in tight corsets dragged heavy, ornate hems through streets running with mud, garbage and animal and human waste, all before washing machines or dry cleaners existed.
A viscountess on a bicycle
In 1881 a group of London society women founded the Rational Dress Society to reform Victorian women's clothing. Among the founders was Lady Harberton, a viscountess who loved cycling and hated how her skirts kept catching in the bicycle chain. "A lady dressed according to the present fashion takes up the space of at least three men," she said. She pushed for the divided skirt, more or less what we'd call gauchos, and got mocked in both England and America for it. Not all her arguments held up. She once claimed that skirts trailing through filth were a leading cause of tuberculosis in women.
In 1898 she stopped for lunch at the Hautboy Hotel in Surrey wearing bloomers, which were extremely generous, heavy pantaloons. The innkeeper, Mrs. Sprague, wouldn't seat her in the restaurant because she was indecently dressed, and sent her into the bar instead, where working men in shirtsleeves sat drinking and smoking. "I could not remain with these horrid men," Lady Harberton said. She sued. The jury found Mrs. Sprague not guilty, and the courtroom gallery burst into applause.
Tradition won that day, but hemlines kept creeping up anyway. Then came Gabrielle, who learned to sew in a strict Catholic orphanage after her mother died. History knows her as Coco Chanel. She brought in skirts that ended just below the knee, and women's legs felt the sun for the first time in centuries. In the few years between the Victorians and the flappers, ankles became a craze.
Behind the canvas sheet
In Cleveland in August 1905, organizers put on a Cinderella contest. The judge was a young woman, Miss Della Cohn, which was unusual, since local police usually got the job. The newspaper printed one entrant's name, address and shoe size: Miss Marie Linder of No. 52 Becker Street, size 2D. At another contest in Ohio, a half dozen women stood behind a canvas sheet hung a foot off the ground and lifted their skirts at a starting signal.
In 1912 the Rocky Mountain News ran a contest in Denver to prove wrong a man who claimed local girls had "beefy ankles." There were 186 pairs of ankles entered and more than 3,000 applicants to judge them. They had a reason to line up: judges didn't just look. They measured, stroked and caressed.
For decades, women competed in ankle beauty contests, hiding behind screens or even wearing pillowcases over their heads while judges scrutinized their legs. Some judges went so far as to measure, stroke, and caress contestants' ankles. In Denver in 1912, 186 pairs of ankles competed, and more than 3,000 men applied to be judges.
Pillowcases and hosiery men
The contests went on for decades. At New Jersey's Palisades Amusement Park in 1951, women in short formal dresses, stockings and heels lined up with pillowcases over their heads and ragged eyeholes cut out. The winner, Miss Peggy Maschke of Altoona, Pennsylvania, competed for prizes that included a year's supply of hosiery.
Hosiery money was all over these events. In 1927 the National Hosiery and Underwear Exposition at the Hotel Waldorf Astoria picked Miss Gladys Turner of Orange, New Jersey, as best legs. The heavy favorite, Miss Era Briggs of Birmingham, Alabama, couldn't make the trip. The judges agreed her photographs were perfect but said they couldn't crown her without a personal inspection, so she was awarded a silver cup. Another contest at a New York food show was open to housewives only, in hopes of finding the fleshy curves that sportier, boyish fashions were pushing out. As one lament put it, "Where are the hips of yesteryear?"
The British joined in too. In Ormskirk in 1935 there were separate heats for grannies, housewives and bright young things, all parading behind a sheet while the crowd heckled the lone judge, Mr. Wilson. The winner was Mrs. Picton, a matron, and she passed her prize to the next in merit. By the 1960s, miniskirts had made bare legs an everyday sight, and the thrill of glimpsing a woman's ankle was fading. After all, why hold a contest to see something you could see just about anywhere?
The ankle match
On Friday, October 4, 1912, Captain George Gray got a phone call at his Wall Street office. He was a 69-year-old Union veteran in real estate. Mrs. Israel Hall told him three gentlemen were waiting at her home to talk business. They turned out to be detectives, and they arrested him for grand larceny.
His accuser was Mrs. Mary Bell, 63, the widow of another Union officer. Two nights before, at her home, Gray had announced, "When it comes to the daintiest of ankles and feet, American women simply can't compete." Mrs. Bell and Mrs. Hall took offense, so he suggested a match on the spot. "I am from Missouri," he said. Then he added, "Ladies, I'm afraid I can't pass judgment on feet and ankles in stockings." The stockings came off, and Mrs. Bell won. Later she noticed that her gold watch and $51 were gone. She had kept them in her stocking, and $51 then was worth more than $1,700 today.
Gray spent the night in jail. In less than 24 hours, the story had reached California, with headlines like "Judge of feminine ankle contest is pinched for theft." Then Mrs. Bell told the magistrate she had found the watch and money in her own kitchen. The case was dismissed.
The strangest part of the whole affair might be how casually everyone seemed to accept the idea of a foot and ankle competition. It was a time when judging women's ankles wasn't just an unusual private amusement. It was a popular pastime.
