In 1842, a crowd at a London dance hall was invited down to the cellar, and the man waiting at the door held a human skull in each hand. By flickering torchlight, the revelers toured the spots where bodies had been stacked, the rooms where corpses had been quietly dissected and the coffins chopped into splinters. The grand finale was the mummy-like corpse of the pastor who had taken money from grieving families to bury their dead, and then didn't.
The host was Dr. George Alfred Walker, and the shock was the point. He was trying to change how London treated its dead. Nearly a century later and an ocean away, San Francisco would show how far that lesson traveled.
A city out of room
By the mid-1800s, London was the largest city in the world, and it had run out of places to put the dead. Gravediggers sank 20-foot shafts and stacked coffins until a couple of inches of soil covered the top one. Old coffins were dug up, the remains dumped on the ground and the wood chopped up and sold to the poor as firewood. People visiting graveyards tripped over bones scattered among the tombstones.
Victorians blamed the smell. They believed in miasma, a poisonous, foul-smelling vapor they thought caused sickness and death, and the city gave them plenty to smell. Human waste heaped up in courtyards and ran through the gutters into the Thames, while cholera, typhoid and scarlet fever tore through the population. Graveyard gases were real enough, too. Undertakers were routinely called to drill holes in coffins sitting in church vaults, a practice called tapping, to keep them from exploding.
The cellar under Enon Chapel
Walker was convinced the dead were London's number one health problem, and his favorite example was Enon Chapel. It was built in the slums in the 1820s as a burial speculation: a church that offered the poor a cheap alternative to the cemetery plots only the wealthy could afford. The pastor raked in the mourners' shillings, and the bodies went into the cellar, right under the congregation. Parishioners sat through sermons with handkerchiefs pressed to their noses.
The cellar wasn't large, but somehow it never filled up, and the rumors about why turned out to be true. Workers hauled out the oldest corpses to make room, loaded them onto wagons and dumped them in the Thames. Sometimes they flushed remains into the sewer running under the chapel. Sometimes they hacked bodies into smaller pieces. Walker documented what the work did to the men: pain in the head, violent palpitation of the heart, universal trembling with vomiting.
He pleaded with the government for reform. "Graveyards are laboratories of malaria," he argued. He tried appealing to officials' humanity with testimony about gravediggers playing skittles, an old bowling game, with the dead: "Put up bones and take skulls and knock them down." Officials listened, which was more than the Bishop of London would do, but they weren't convinced. Neither were Walker's fellow doctors. The Royal College of Physicians pointed instead to rotting bodies leaking into the wells of the poor, which was closer to the truth than Walker's bad air.
Cholera forces a reckoning
Cholera, a bacterial disease spread through contaminated water, killed 52,000 people in its first outbreak in 1830. When it came surging back in 1848, the government brought in Edwin Chadwick, a lawyer and social reformer whose careful data tied filthy living conditions directly to disease. The Public Health Act of 1848 followed. Parishes got government loans to build garden-like cemeteries on the edge of the city, and 36 of the 43 urban burial sites were ordered closed, to the Bishop of London's fury.
Some owners took it badly. One falsely announced that he'd been ordered to dig up every body, and the digging happened anyway. At New Bunhill Fields, next to an elementary school, children watched broken coffins spill out their liquefied contents. But in July 1854, the parish of St. Pancras opened a cemetery laid out like a park, lovely enough that people came just to stroll. Even Walker was pleasantly surprised.
San Francisco outlawed burial and shipped more than 100,000 corpses to a town where the dead now vastly outnumber the living. Thousands more never left and still lie under its golf course and museums, and their tombstones became the city's seawalls and rain gutters.
Evicting the dead
San Francisco once had 30 or more cemeteries. Today it has two. Around 1900, its graveyards were as filthy as London's. Coffins were the exception, and kids and dogs kept stumbling onto human bones. Wealthy property owners complained that cemeteries dragged down land values on real estate far too valuable to leave to the dead. In March 1900, the city outlawed burial within city limits. The dead went about 10 miles south to Colma, a necropolis (a city of the dead) that now holds more than a million and a half graves and fewer than 2,000 living people.
In 1914, the city declared its old cemeteries a public nuisance. Mayor Jim Rolph Jr.., known as Sunny Jim, explained in an open letter: "The duty of government, however, is always more to the living than the dead." Every body had to be dug up. Moving a loved one cost $10, about $314 today, and families who couldn't pay got a mass grave. Wyatt Earp made the trip fast, but the Catholic Archdiocese, the Freemasons and the Oddfellows fought the law. It was an odd team-up, since the Church had condemned those secret societies. The Oddfellows didn't start moving their 26,000 graves until 1931. By 1937, the lawsuits were over and more than 100,000 corpses were rolling south in daily hearse processions, because any body dug up had to be moved that same day.
Not everyone made the trip. In 1941, plumbers hit iron caskets, opened one for a look at the bones, shoved everything back and finished the sewer line. In 2001, workers found 18 skeletons under the future Asian Art Museum, on the site of the Yerba Buena Cemetery, which had closed in 1871. Thousands of the poor, with no one to claim them, still lie under Lincoln Park Golf Course and the California Palace of the Legion of Honor. Plowing over them was cheaper than moving them.
Tombstones by the bay
During the Great Depression, few families could afford to move a headstone, so the Department of Public Works found uses for tons of them. Old gravestones reinforce the seawall at Aquatic Park, built in 1938 and never modified since. The white stones in the Marina District's yacht harbor seawall were once grave markers. In Buena Vista Park, broken marble tombstones line the rain gutters, laid face down, though stray letters and numbers still show. In July 1979, the owner of a pet cemetery found the marble slab from the grave of Colonel Edward Dickinson Baker, Abraham Lincoln's good friend, who was buried with full military honors, sitting in a run-down barn in Colma.
