They called it the last of the American Versailles: 110 rooms, 55 bedrooms, a ballroom built for a thousand guests, and its own electrical plant and farm, spread across 300 acres outside Philadelphia. Peter Widener built it between 1897 and 1899 for more than $300 million in today's dollars. Half a century later, it sold on the courthouse steps for $130,000.
The handsome butcher
Widener started out with a cleaver. He cut meat in Philadelphia's Fifth Street Market, where he was known as "the handsome butcher." He kept at least ten spotless aprons in a drawer, and the moment a drop of blood hit one, he changed into a clean one before he'd wait on the next customer. During the Civil War he won a contract to supply mutton to Union troops. Philadelphia had the biggest Union military hospitals and was a major hub for sending troops out, so that contract turned a chain of meat shops into serious money. He put it into horse-drawn streetcars, and in 1883 he cofounded the Philadelphia Traction Company. It combined the trolley lines of Philadelphia and then spread to New York, Chicago, Pittsburgh and Baltimore. He helped organize U.S. Steel, the American Tobacco Company and the International Mercantile Marine Company. He served seven years as city treasurer. He became a robber baron, one of the Gilded Age tycoons whose fortunes rested on exploited labor and backroom monopolies.
Philadelphia's old-money families never let him forget the sawdust. To them, a butcher's fortune had fresh blood on it. Their own money was no cleaner, just older.
A palace built on grief
Construction began in 1897, a year after Widener's wife, Hannah, died suddenly aboard the couple's yacht off the coast of Maine. The family never said what killed her. Peter couldn't bear to stay in their Broad Street townhouse, so he gave it to the Philadelphia Free Library and threw himself into building the new house.
He spared no expense. The limestone came from Indiana, and the bronze front doors were cast in Florence. The wood paneling came out of a French chateau. Chairs from the Palace of Versailles had once cradled the delicate bottoms of kings. A Louis Comfort Tiffany skylight threw shifting color across one room, and the reception room ceiling was painted as a turquoise sky flecked with tiny clouds. Rembrandts and Vermeers hung on the walls, along with 16 paintings by Raphael. The house had secrets, too. Behind the butler's pantry, left off the blueprints, was a hidden room of fourteen velvet-lined safes. A boarded-up half floor sat above the pantry, tunnels ran under the house for the staff, and a secret passage led from the smoking room to a bathroom.
Lifeboat number four
In 1912, Peter's son George sailed to Paris with his wife, Eleanor, and their son Harry. Officially, they went to hire a proper French chef for the family's Ritz Carlton Hotel in Philadelphia. Eleanor also meant to shop for their daughter's trousseau, a bride's all-new wardrobe, before a spring wedding at the family mansion. For the trip home, they booked passage on the ship everyone was talking about. On April 10 they boarded Titanic at Southampton and settled into cabins C80, C81 and C82.
After the ship hit the iceberg, George waited in the cold for more than an hour in line for lifeboat number four. He watched Eleanor and her maid, Amalie Gieger, get into the boat, then stayed on deck with Harry. Father and son both died. George's name was on the very first list of bodies recovered, and the family arranged a special train car to bring him home. Then the White Star Line sent word that "because of its condition it had been found necessary to bury at sea the body of George D. Widener". The family had no body to bury and no coffin to follow.
The cruelest twist was in Peter Widener's own business dealings. The International Mercantile Marine, which he had helped found, owned the White Star Line, the company that built Titanic. Peter died in his bed on November 6, 1915, at 80. The New York Times reported that he "succumbed to old age and deep sorrow caused by the loss of his son and grandson in the Titanic disaster."
The ship that killed Peter Widener's son and grandson was built by the White Star Line, and the White Star Line was owned by the International Mercantile Marine, a company Widener had helped found.
Sold for parts
His will locked the fortune away. Family members could live on the income, but they could never touch the principal. The estate couldn't be divided until every living descendant had been dead for 21 years. Meanwhile, the will opened the house to every child and grandchild who wanted to live there. It set nothing aside to keep the place standing.
His last surviving son, Joseph, inherited the art and his father's grudge. Starting in 1940, he gave more than 2,000 pieces worth over $18 million to the National Gallery in Washington. The Philadelphia Museum of Art was nearly next door, and he made sure it didn't get a thing.
Joseph died in 1943. None of the heirs wanted to take on the house, and by 1944 it stood empty. A developer bought 220 acres of the farmland for a subdivision. Later he bought the mansion and its 36-acre formal French garden at a courthouse-steps auction for $130,000. For years nobody would buy it from him. Then in 1952, fundamentalist preacher Carl McIntire paid $192,000 to turn it into a seminary. The ballroom became a chapel, and the art galleries held a 23,000-volume library. To pay the bills, McIntire stripped off the walnut paneling and sold the marble from the fireplaces and balustrades. One dealer paid him $400,000 for seven statues, then priced the fountains at $2.5 million. "The property is a very heavy burden on us," McIntire said. Most of the decoration had been made in France and put together on site, so it came off easily, like pieces of a Gilded Age Lego set.
In 1996 the house went up for auction again. The only bidder was the Reverend Richard S. Yoon, a urologist and pastor at the First Korean Church of New York. He admitted that $7 million to $10 million worth of property had been hauled out of the house between 1991 and 1996. He evicted McIntire's seminary and then spent about two decades losing fights over tax-exempt status, going all the way to the Supreme Court in 2013. All the while, water kept coming through the roof.
No broken windows
Locked and dark, the house drew urban explorers. They filmed peeling paint, chunks of marble piling up in the indoor pool, and a third floor ruined by water. Their videos never show graffiti. Explorer Liam O'Mara told The Philadelphia Inquirer the mansion was "the only place he's ever been in that has no broken windows and zero graffiti." His theory: "The place has weight, and that weight earns respect."
In 2018, Angie Van Scyoc and Edward Thome started a preservation society to buy the property. It had sat on the market for nearly a decade when they finally bought it in June 2023 for $9 million. They hope to open the doors to the public in 2026.
