Every five to seven years in the Central Highlands of Madagascar, families unseal their tombs, lift out their ancestors and dance with them. To most Americans that sounds like a horror movie. To the Malagasy, it's a family reunion, and the stranger rituals may be the ones practiced in American funeral homes.
Death in America is a $23 billion-a-year business, spread across roughly 19,000 funeral homes, about 80% of them still in private hands. It wasn't always a business at all. Women washed the body, men built the coffin and dug the grave, and relatives sat with the dead for three days to make certain they were, in fact, truly dead.
Rum, gloves, and silence
Puritan funerals in colonial America were silent. There was no sermon, no eulogy, no hymn. The Puritans believed in predestination, the idea that God had already settled every soul's fate, so no amount of wailing or praying could help the departed. Graves got plain, modest markers.
The wake was another matter. The night before the burial, friends and neighbors crowded into the home of the deceased, feasting and toasting while keeping a sharp eye on the coffin in case its occupant woke up. In an age of primitive medicine, a deeply unconscious person could pass for dead, and that vigil gave the wake its name. Rum was often the single biggest funeral expense in 17th-century colonial America.
As the colonies grew, so did the pageantry. Mourners wrote tributes to the dead and tacked them up, and the papers were gathered and printed in mourning broadsheets, special newspapers for eulogies. Families mailed funeral tickets, one of which read: "You are desired to accompany the corpse of Mrs. Dorothy Wood." Then came funeral gifts: gold rings, scarves and gloves, eventually a new pair of gloves for every mourner. It took a law to stop it. In 1761 the Massachusetts Bay Province passed the "Act to retrench the extraordinary expense at funerals," capping the gloves and banning wine, rum and rings on penalty of 50 pounds. These were, it bears mentioning, the same people who outlawed Christmas.
Standing at attention, dead
The Civil War changed everything. Soldiers in blue and gray agreed on one thing: neither side wanted to be buried on enemy soil. Dr. Thomas Holmes, the father of modern embalming, preserved fallen Union soldiers for the Army Medical Corps, and enterprising physicians spotted a market. Some military surgeons scooped up unidentified bodies from the battlefield, embalmed them, and propped them up standing at attention outside their tents as advertising. They raised prices as casualties mounted, and charged more when the dead man was an officer.
The gouging got so bad that on March 15, 1865, the War Department issued General Orders No. 39, requiring embalmers to be licensed by the Provost Marshal, prove their skill and follow a fixed scale of prices.
Five shades darker
A month later, Abraham Lincoln was assassinated, and his body became something like the country's first viral marketing campaign for embalming. The government sent him home to Springfield, Illinois, on a two-week funeral train with a top speed of 20 miles per hour, and the body was embalmed and re-embalmed at nearly every stop.
Philadelphia went well. More than 150,000 people waited in five-hour lines, and a newspaper praised the president's "natural, placid, peaceful expression." By the time the train left New York City for Albany, The New York Times reported a face "nearly five shades darker." Its verdict: "The dust had gathered upon the features, the lower jaw somewhat dropped, the lips slightly parted and the teeth visible. It was not a pleasant sight."
The Chicago Tribune tried to spin it. Illinois Governor Richard Oglesby, riding the train, telegraphed Springfield to move the funeral up at least two days. In Columbus, the editor of The Crisis saw "A dark, unnatural face whose features were plaintive and pinched and sharp, piteously like death." Mary Todd Lincoln begged for an end to the procession and was ignored. After 1,700 miles, the 16th president arrived essentially mummified, and the modern funeral business was born.
Every five to seven years, Malagasy families take their ancestors out of the tomb and dance with them. By Malagasy belief, the dead can't join their ancestors until their bodies turn to dust, so the Americans who embalm their dead and seal them in concrete are the ones keeping grandma from moving on.
Dancing with the ancestors
Famadihana, which means the turning of the bones, is practiced by the Malagasy people of Madagascar. It opens like a multi-day party, with dance music, endless food and drink, and zebu, a humped breed of cattle, roasted for the crowd. Host families dress in matching fabric, and poor families shoulder the cost anyway.
On the second day, the family crypts come open. The dead are lifted out feet first, and their old shrouds are unwound and discarded. Relatives stroke the bones and share the latest news. Only good news, though, so the dead won't be upset and unable to rest. Each body is rewrapped in a fresh lamba, the silk shroud, with the person's name written on it so they'll always be remembered. The lamba dance alone can last two hours.
Then the wrapped dead are hoisted high to join the dance: five steps forward, five steps back, always finished before sunset. The bodies are paraded around the tomb three times, raised three times to joyful shouts, and slid back in headfirst, upside down, sometimes with gifts of tobacco, alcohol or money. No tears are allowed.
The practice has been documented for roughly 400 years. It grows from the belief that spirits stay bound to their bodies until the flesh decays. Only then can the dead join their ancestors. More than 85% of Malagasy people are Christian, yet the ritual survives because it's more cultural than religious.
Lipstick on a sewn mouth
Now picture American customs through Malagasy eyes. A mortician sets the features: a small plastic eye cap under each lid keeps the eyes shut and fills out the sunken eye, and a suture through the lips and septum keeps the mouth closed. The blood is drained and replaced with preservatives like formalin. Embalming is the law if a body flies home on a commercial plane, and in many states if burial comes more than 48 hours after death. Then comes makeup no different from what's sold at Sephora.
The body goes into a steel casket that can last 50 years, sealed inside a concrete grave liner or an asphalt-coated vault, which cemeteries, not the law, require. When Medgar Evers was exhumed in 1991 after 28 years in the grave, he was so well preserved that his son was permitted to view him.
To the Malagasy, all this delay would look cruel: poisoning the dead, painting them like dolls, and keeping them from the spirit world. "If the Malagasy Famadihana seems weird and superstitious, how do you think putting lipstick on dead grandma's sewed shut mouth comes off?" Neither side has the monopoly on strange. The surgeons who propped up dead soldiers outside their tents are another story. "Those dudes are the only real weirdos in this tale."
