In 1919, New York threw a gala at Tammany Hall for a man in soup-stained denim. His court came into the city by boxcar, the kitchen served Mulligan stew, and the dancing ran until dawn. The guest of honor was Jeff Davis, King of the Hobos, and the money raised that night was meant to buy him a house.
Before there was a king, there had to be a kingdom. It was built on steel rails, and a lot of people died on it.
Hobos, tramps and bums
Dr. Ben Reitman left home at 12 to ride the rails. He grew up to be a physician, an anarchist and the lover of the radical Emma Goldman, and he had a name for what drove men onto the trains: dromomania, a disease he said shows up as "an insane desire to wander." Reitman sorted the drifters into three kinds. Hobos were migrant workers traveling in search of jobs. Tramps were penniless wanderers out for excitement and adventure. Bums, the smallest group and the most trouble, were lost to drink and drugs.
The railroad made all of it possible. Between 1866 and 1873, more than 35,000 miles of new track spread across the country. The best measure of how many people rode it without paying is the body count. Between 1898 and 1902, the Interstate Commerce Commission documented about 48,000 people injured on trains and another 48,000 killed.
Riding the rods
Some riders stretched out across the steel bars under the cars, which they called riding the rods, and held on for dear life. Others jumped the blinds, the platforms on faster passenger trains. Most crowded into boxcars, where a long, slow tunnel could suffocate everyone inside. In July 1902, a freight wreck in Chicago crushed eight cars packed with men "beating" their way to the city, hobo slang for riding without a ticket. Many of the ones who could still walk ran off.
Hobos made perfect prey: strangers passing through with no one to report them missing. Three robbers once climbed into a boxcar with 15 hobos, clubbed a man with an iron bar and made every rider take off his shoes. They got away with $92. Some men took as little as four cents from a single victim.
Railroad security was often worse. After Allan Pinkerton died in 1884, the railroads stopped hiring his detectives and started deputizing nearly any man willing to fire a gun. These railroad vigilantes, called bulls, robbed riders in the boxcars, and in the early 1900s they murdered thousands of hobos every year.
A dollar a head
Then came the Great Depression, and more than two million Americans started hopping trains to chase work. Railroads stopped trains and threw riders off wherever they happened to be. So many were dumped at the water stop in Perryville, Maryland, that the town's merchants complained, and not every hobo who hit the ground there was alive.
In Virginia, the bulls found a racket. Special agents of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway arrested hobos and collected a dollar apiece from the state for each prisoner. The magistrate who swore out the warrant also collected a dollar, and the sheriff got a 50-cent turnkey fee plus a daily allowance for feeding the men. Circuit Judge Julian Gunn did the math and found that arresting hobos in a single county was costing the struggling state $8,000 to $10,000 a year. With the governor's backing, he leaned on the railroad until it stopped.
By then, whole families rode the freights. In Texas in 1934, a father lifted six-year-old Sybil Louise Hudson into a slow-moving boxcar just as her mother slipped trying to climb aboard. The train carried the girl away alone. Other hobos took her off at the next stop, and a county probation officer, Paul White, took her home for the night until he found her parents. A newspaper reported that "She didn't seem worried at all about being away from her parents."
The penniless drifters that America beat, robbed and jailed for a bounty had their own elected king and a union of more than 846,000 members. They also helped create the American Civil Liberties Union.
The king and his hotel
Jeff Davis founded the Hoboes of America in 1908 and preached that a hobo was a working man who begged only when he had no other choice. In 1913 he opened the first Hotel de Gink in Seattle, a shelter run by its own guests, each of whom volunteered two days a week in exchange for a hot meal, a haircut and a clean blanket on the floor. More followed in Tacoma and Portland. In 1914, Davis rented a five-story building in New York City for $1 a year. The superintendent of the city's Municipal Employment Bureau was furious about it. Davis opened the doors anyway. New guests stood under a shower while their clothes were fumigated, and "Hobo steam fitters are busy making beds out of canvas and iron rods" salvaged from old pipe. There was a cabaret, and Davis wrote the hotel its own dance, the de Gink One Step. He also asked families to send in the names of missing fathers, brothers and husbands so his 150 guests could pass the word down the line.
His rival, the millionaire James Eads How, called himself a philosophical anarchist and dismissed Davis as a socialist. At a 1913 hobo convention, Davis won the room by announcing that "Christopher Columbus was a water hobo," who begged Isabella for a stake. How skipped the 1919 gala and stayed home sulking in St. Louis.
By 1936, Davis's International Itinerant Migratory Workers Union had more than 846,000 members, 40,000 of them women. A 1935 convention in Pittsburgh voted him hobo king for life, and three years later he was promoted to emperor. When the king of the Iowa hobos, Ben Benson, attacked him on the grounds that "No real hobo takes a wife," the complaint went nowhere. During World War II, Davis boasted that 40,000 American hobos were serving in the armed forces. He retired at 80 and died in 1968. Without him, the hobo movement faded away.
A union of 63
The hobos left something bigger behind. In 1889, 63 of them founded Tourist Union 63 to help each other find work. Their code told members to "decide your own life" and to take the jobs nobody else wanted. In the 1920s, some of those same men helped form an organization that spent more than 50 years fighting oppressive vagrancy laws and is still defending civil liberties today: the American Civil Liberties Union. Who would have guessed that the ACLU got its start with men who rode into town under a freight car?
