In Stalin's Soviet Union, some of the most important cities in the country had no names and appeared on no unclassified map. The people inside them were paid well, fed well and forbidden ever to leave, and according to the official census they did not exist. Some of them built the Soviet bomb. Others lived through the worst nuclear disaster the world had seen before Chernobyl, and then kept it secret for thirty years.
A mountain that broke compasses
Stalin had been building secret cities long before the war. His first was Magnitogorsk, in the shadow of Mount Magnitnaya, the Magnetic Mountain, which held so much iron ore that compasses were useless there and birds flew around it. The first laborers arrived in the 1920s to find a few ragged tents and some falling-down shacks. Tens of thousands of them bolted. So Stalin went to plan B: peasants thrown off their own land under threat of death. The state called them special resettlers. The correct term is prisoners.
They were building one of the largest steel plants in the world, and the whole thing, steelworks and city, was designed to copy Gary, Indiana, with a Pittsburgh thrown in. They lived in tents through blizzards and dust storms, crawling with lice and bedbugs, with no medical care while typhus, malaria and scarlet fever raced through the camp. More than 10,000 people died in the first five years. Every morning a cart stopped outside the barracks and the driver called out, "Hey, do you have any dead today?" The children died first, then the elderly. Meanwhile, party anthems celebrated eager communist youth building a socialist steel city with their bare hands.
Stalin didn't advertise that he'd hired capitalists to make it work: the American firm Arthur McKee Company to design the steelworks, and the German architect Ernst May to plan the workers' utopia. All the corner-cutting caught up with them on January 31, 1932, when blast furnace number one exploded. It was more than 20 below that morning, so at least the survivors could warm their hands.
When the Nazis invaded in June 1941, Stalin had hundreds of factories taken apart and moved to Siberia, out of the Germans' reach. The workers went with them, into towns that had no names, only map coordinates that were fake and kept changing.
A saint's town, erased
Sarov was once a holy place. The hermit Seraphim lived in a forest cabin there for 25 years. When thieves found no money in his shelter, they beat him nearly to death with the handle of his own ax, and he went to their trial to beg the judge for mercy. He was made a saint in 1903. He had preached, "acquire a peaceful spirit, and around you 1000s will be saved."
By 1946 Sarov had vanished from the maps. Behind barbed wire and armed guards, it went through a string of code names before one stuck: Arzamas-16, a nuclear weapons center run by the NKVD, the Soviet secret police that came before the KGB. The workers called it "the forbidden zone." The scientists got privileges. Most of the labor, though, came from prisoners.
Physicist Igor Kurchatov led the bomb effort, with help from Klaus Fuchs, a German physicist who handed the Soviets detailed information on the Fat Man bomb. When the Soviets tested their copy on August 29, 1949, it stunned the world. Fuchs later confessed in a British courtroom to seven years of passing secrets, served nine years, and then retired comfortably from a senior job in East Germany. By 1951 the city had produced 29 atomic bombs, and it had picked up a nickname: "Los Arzamas." It went on to build the Tsar Bomba, the most powerful thermonuclear weapon ever tested, 3,300 times stronger than the Hiroshima bomb. Its mushroom cloud rose 42 miles high.
About 80,000 people lived there. Scientists had to write every report by hand, because the authorities believed typists and clerks could not be trusted. Informers were everywhere. In exchange, families got good schools, theaters, and food and luxury goods most Soviet citizens never saw, all of it meant to keep them loyal and quiet.
The tank nobody was watching
Chelyabinsk-40 was built from scratch in 1947 to make plutonium, on a lake that would cool the reactors and serve as a dump. More than 40,000 Gulag prisoners and prisoners of war, sent from the network of Soviet forced labor camps, got five reactors running, with no thought for safety. When the first lake got too contaminated, waste went into Lake Karachay, which quickly became the most contaminated place on earth.
Later, starving laborers with no training built steel waste tanks 27 feet underground, each wrapped in a cooling system. The fatal flaw was the monitoring. On September 29, 1957, the cooling around one tank failed and nobody noticed. At 4:22 that afternoon the tank blew up with the force of 70 or more tons of dynamite, tearing off a 160-ton concrete slab. Radioactive dust settled on streets, schools, hair and shoes. A cloud drifted more than 200 miles, poisoning somewhere between 300 and 800 square miles where more than a quarter million people lived.
It took a week to start evacuating anyone, and the 10,000 people moved first were never told why. People's skin came off in sheets and their hair fell out in clumps, and local hospitals had no idea they were treating radiation poisoning. When fallout readings spiked in other countries, American newspapers guessed the Soviets had tested a dirty bomb. Moscow didn't admit to the accident until 1987.
The worst nuclear disaster before Chernobyl happened in a city that officially didn't exist, to people the census said had never been born. Decades later, when those residents were asked whether to open their gates, they voted no, twice.
What the workers finally said
Decades later, a few veterans talked, though many still feared the KGB more than radiation. Viktor Sladkov said workers mopped up spills with reused washcloths and didn't even know what radioactivity was. "It's all lies and cover-ups," he said of the official record. Inna Razmahova pulled soldiers off the job once they'd hit the maximum dose, and her chief was furious. The limit was only for plant staff: "Soldiers, he said, could receive more, and prisoners, much more." Vorik Dvoryankin remembered a coworker whose blood got contaminated with plutonium. When people washed his wounds, the division head was angry: "He told us we had to collect all the blood and water so we could recover all the plutonium."
Still behind the wire
Magnitogorsk opened to foreign visitors in 1989. It's still a steel town, and still badly polluted. As one local put it, "the steelworks eat people alive." The Magnetic Mountain is gone, mined away completely. Sarov got its old name back and is still sealed off, and the peaceful hermit Seraphim is now the patron saint of nuclear weapons. Chelyabinsk-40, now Ozyorsk, still dumps waste into Lake Karachay. When residents were asked in 1989 and again in 1999 whether to open the city, they voted no by a wide margin both times. They were proud to be trusted with state secrets, and they weren't willing to lose access to the best of everything at little to no cost.
