On August 15th, 1951, the bread in a sleepy Rhône river port in the south of France turned on the people who ate it. Within 48 hours, hundreds of villagers in Pont Saint-Esprit were doubled over with cramps, drooling, sweating and unable to sleep. Then the visions came. One man, Gabriel Valadaire, tried to throw himself into the river, crying, "I am dead, and my head is made of copper, and I have snakes in my stomach, and they are burning me."
No one has ever proven what was in that bread. The official answer is mercury. The toxicologists' own final report never mentions it.
Gray flour, wet rye
In 1951, Pont Saint-Esprit was still clawing its way back from World War II. During the German occupation, the Vichy regime, France's wartime government, had tightly rationed flour, and after the war France kept the same system for moving it around. Bakers had no say in who grew or milled their grain. A baker could petition the government over a bad shipment, but his bakery stayed shut until an inspector got around to it, so few bothered. People got used to bread that ranged from inferior to peculiar.
That summer was a wet one in the Avignon region, and ergot loves rain. Ergot is a fungal disease of rye, spread by splashing rain and by insects, and it has been making people sick since ancient Assyria. Medieval Europe called the illness St. Anthony's fire, after the Benedictine monks who nursed its victims through searing, burning pain in their hands and feet. One order even painted its hospital walls bright red to match the agony. Ergot can be a medicine, a poison, a weapon or a party drug. In 1938, Albert Hofmann, a chemist at the Swiss company Sandoz, used it to synthesize lysergic acid diethylamide: LSD.
That August, a local baker's flour arrived oddly gray. Complaining would cost him business, and nothing guaranteed the government would take his side. So he baked the baguettes and loaves his customers needed.
A town losing its mind
Some 200 people called for urgent medical help, some screaming that fire and monsters surrounded them. The British Medical Journal described patients with dilated pupils who couldn't read, and who gave off a musty smell like dead mice. Toward evening, visions of animals and flames arrived. Two patients threw themselves out of windows.
A mother ran through the streets crying, "My children have become sausages!" Patients thrashed in their beds, screaming that red flowers were blossoming from their bodies. In Hank Albarelli's 2010 book A Terrible Mistake, one young man ripped a canvas straitjacket in two, then chewed through the leather straps holding him to a jail cot so savagely that some of his teeth fell out. By August 18th, 250 people were sick, 32 had been committed to an asylum in Marseille, and four were dead. Later, a fifth victim, 79-year-old Joseph Portal, died in a psychiatric hospital. Rumors raced through town: the police had poisoned the water, a defrocked priest had cursed the place, a low-flying plane had sprayed an invisible dust, and three polite, well-dressed strangers had come through the day before.
Every answer, ruled out
Investigators soon doubted ergot. Toxicologists found it only in tiny amounts, alongside mysterious unidentified alkaloids, the organic compounds that make ergot toxic. Bread tainted with ergot should also taste and smell so revolting that people spit it out. Mercury didn't fit either. There was no kidney damage, no mercury in the autopsies of the dead or of a sick dog, and none in the flour. Besides, mercury doesn't cause days of hallucinations and insomnia. Whatever did this had to be powerful, tasteless and odorless, strong enough to wreck someone with a single bite. As John Fuller put it in The Day of St. Anthony's Fire, "It was a drama without a villain, except for the phantom that continued to hover over the village."
The final toxicology report declared, "It is correct to abandon the hypothesis of poisoning by ergot," because ergot showed up at less than one part per thousand. That's a mild dose of ergot. As LSD, it would be a massive dose, since a single effective dose was about like one raindrop in a swimming pool.
The police had never heard of LSD, and the toxicologists wanted to be done. Crops were rotting and businesses were failing, and a nation couldn't be left afraid of its own bread. So the public prosecutor closed the case, admitting that authorities "were not able to determine where or under what conditions and by whose fault or negligence the deadly event had been produced." The story that stuck was grain treated with a fungicide containing mercury.
Investigators ruled out both ergot and mercury, and France officially blamed mercury anyway. Meanwhile, the CIA's spray-weapons expert was in town days before hundreds of people went mad, and the man who invented LSD showed up days after.
The chemist and the jumper
Two visitors complicate that tidy ending. In the days before the outbreak, Frank Olson was in Pont Saint-Esprit. He was a biochemist at the secret weapons lab at Fort Detrick, Maryland, and a CIA contractor whose specialty was turning biochemical agents into sprays. In the days right after the outbreak, Albert Hofmann showed up. He and his boss at Sandoz, Arthur Stoll, met with the town's doctors to talk about ergot and about LSD, a discovery Hofmann described as "appalling, frightful, shocking." He feared it could cause more destruction than the atom bomb.
Sandoz sold massive amounts of LSD to the CIA for MKUltra, the agency's secret program of experiments on people who didn't know they were being tested. A declassified 1954 CIA memo said LSD was capable of "rendering whole groups of people, including military forces, indifferent to their surroundings and situations," and suggested using it to contaminate food and water. Researchers also knew about a bewildering side effect: it made people want to jump out the nearest window.
In 1953, CIA colleagues secretly spiked Olson's drink with LSD. Afterward he became paranoid, convinced someone was poisoning his food. Nine days after that meeting, on November 28th, he plunged from a tenth-floor window of the Statler Hotel in New York.
Boxes of paper
In January 1973, on orders from CIA director Richard Helms, MKUltra chief Sidney Gottlieb drove to the agency's records center in Warrenton, Virginia, and destroyed the program's files. That June, he had his assistant burn the MKUltra files in his office safe, including material on Olson. His explanation was that there was a lot of paper, and "They were the kinds of things that could be easily misunderstood." Then he retired to India, and the FBI was told he would not be available for an interview.
Maybe the ergot somehow mutated. Maybe someone dosed a town and watched. Many survivors lived with lifelong disability, and many of their children were born strangely pale. The bakers blamed the millers, the millers blamed the farmers, and the people who ate the bread never got an answer.
