Less than a mile from Manhattan, in a city with some of the most valuable real estate on earth, sit 22 acres where no people live. Trees grow through what was once a hospital, the theater seats are rotting, and the manholes were left uncovered for weeds and vines to hide. The only residents are herons and egrets. This is North Brother Island, and tragedy found it more than once.
A hospital built to hide the sick
In 1884, New York was hunting smallpox one tenement at a time. People called it the speckled monster. The virus had stalked humanity for at least 3,000 years, and its marks show up on the mummified scalp of the pharaoh Ramses V. It killed three of every ten people it infected. Nine years earlier, an outbreak had killed more than 2,000 New Yorkers.
The city's hospital for contagious diseases sat on Blackwell's Island, now Roosevelt Island, alongside prisons, poorhouses and the New York City Lunatic Asylum. The commissioners of charity and corrections didn't want to share their island with smallpox patients. So the city turned to a wild scrap of land in the East River whose currents were too strong to make it worth developing. Until then, its only building was an 1869 lighthouse. Riverside Hospital opened there in 1885. By 1892, with cholera arriving, sick immigrants from Ellis Island were being sent straight to it.
It looked like a little town, complete with a morgue, a school and even a tennis court. The patients were mostly poor and often immigrants, sick with smallpox, measles, tuberculosis, leprosy, scarlet fever and venereal disease. Many slept in tents. There were no telephones for reaching family, not enough milk for the children and not enough coffins for the dead. The hospital was built to isolate the sick more than to heal them. It was more common to land there and never be seen again than to go home.
The cook who was never sick
Mary Mallon crossed the Atlantic alone from County Tyrone, Ireland, at 15. She worked her way up to cooking for some of New York's most elite families, and typhoid followed her from house to house. In Bar Harbor, Maine, seven of nine family members got sick. Mary stayed on to nurse them, and the footman took the blame. In 1906, every member of banker Charles Warren's family came down with typhoid at Oyster Bay, the Hamptons of its day. Nobody suspected the cook, because Mary was perfectly healthy and people still believed dirt caused disease. The real culprit was a bacterium that lived in urine, feces, blood and bile.
Typhoid wasn't supposed to strike somewhere as wealthy as Oyster Bay, so the owners of the house hired an investigator named George Soper. He worked backward through employment agencies and connected the jobs to Mary, but she never left a forwarding address. In 1907 he tracked her to the kitchen of a Park Avenue house where the family's daughter had just died of typhoid. When Soper demanded a stool sample, Mary reportedly came at him with a meat cleaver or a carving fork.
Police took her into custody. She admitted she seldom washed her hands. And why would she? She had never had typhoid. A prison matron forcibly took samples, and the cultures showed her gallbladder seething with bacteria. Mary was a carrier, a person who spreads a disease without ever showing symptoms. The state gave her two choices: quit cooking or have her gallbladder removed. She refused both. No other job paid as well or came with a place to live, and surgery then carried a real risk of death. Even when the state offered to pay for the operation, her answer was "no knife."
Prisoner of the island
In March 1907 she took the ferry to North Brother Island. Soper wrote up the case in the Journal of the American Medical Association, and the press soon named her Typhoid Mary. Two years into her confinement, she wrote to a young attorney that the authorities meant only to "keep me a prisoner without being sick nor needing medical treatment." "I have been, in fact, a peep show for everybody," she wrote.
A judge denied her petition in 1909. The next year, a new health commissioner named Ernst J. Lederle released her on the condition that she never cook again. Then she vanished for five years. In 1915, typhoid tore through Sloane Maternity Hospital, with 25 cases and two deaths traced to a gelatin dish. Every kitchen worker was ordered to get tested. The cook, Mary Brown, fled instead. Police found her hiding in a bathroom on Long Island. "I'm Typhoid Mary," she admitted.
This time she stayed on the island for good. Meanwhile, a baker named Alphonse Cotils, also a healthy carrier who broke his promise to stay away from food, went free. His judge said, "I could not legally sentence this man to jail on account of his health."
Less than a mile from Manhattan, New York held a perfectly healthy cook on a quarantine island for more than two decades. Meanwhile, 349 other typhoid carriers walked free.
Fire on the East River
On June 15, 1904, St. Mark's Evangelical Lutheran Church chartered a paddle boat called the General Slocum to celebrate the end of the school year. Most passengers were German-American women and children in their Sunday best, singing along with a German band. The ship had passed a fire inspection a month earlier. But the crew had never held a single fire drill, and nobody had noticed that the canvas fire hoses were rotted.
When smoke rose from the lower deck, one sailor compared fighting the blaze to "trying to put out the fires of hell itself." Captain Van Schaick feared his steering would fail in the currents, and a tugboat captain warned him away from a pier piled with lumber. So he raced for North Brother Island. The wind fed the flames. The life preservers were rotted too. Most passengers couldn't swim, and their heavy clothing dragged them under. Some who jumped were sucked into the paddle wheel. Nurses from the hospital swam out to haul the burned to shore. Within an hour, the island's shoreline was covered in bodies, and small children wandered among them in shock.
The final death toll was 1,021, the worst maritime disaster in New York history. The captain, blinded and crippled, was sentenced to ten years in prison, and his sentence was later commuted. Nobody commuted Mary's.
What the birds inherited
Mary spent the rest of her life in a one-story cottage not far from where the Slocum's dead had been piled. A stroke in 1932 left her bedridden, and she died of pneumonia on November 11, 1938. The press called her body a "plump breeding ground of death." At the time, the city was tracking 349 other typhoid carriers, all free to come and go as long as they didn't handle food.
In the 1950s the island housed a program for teenagers with addictions, until reports of corruption and abuse closed it in July 1963. Today there's no dock, just a boat ramp slick with algae, and police boats patrol the water off Rikers Island next door. One major hurricane could put North Brother Island under the East River for good.
